In a nutshell, what I'm saying is, when it comes to marinara sauce, my Grandma can kick your Grandma's ass.
So I'm sure Executive Chef Catie Randazzo of Jury Room (22 E. Mound Street) would understand when I say that I did not care for hers. She would probably be less forgiving, however, when I say I wasn't crazy about anything at all. Although, based on Yelp and Urbanspoon reviews, she should probably be used to it.
From what I gather, Jury Room is more miss than hit far more often than the 'people have different tastes' mantra of so-so chefs allows.
We started with the Calamari--a small, overly greasy portion served with a cup of previously mentioned marinara and without any pizazz.
White Anchovies Salad--a few anchovies mixed in with cherry tomatoes, big hunks of celery, LOTS of olive oil and brioche croutons which were both undercooked and underseasoned. Served with a side of arugula in vinaigrette.
and the Arugula Salad--which was a nice sized portion of good looking arugula with a tasty vinaigrette, Parmesan shavings, not enough cracked black pepper and those same insipid croutons.
Not a stellar start, but it was still Happy Hour, so at least our drinks were cheap and the selection of beers and cocktails was notable. Also our server was more attentive and pleasant than I've had at any other restaurant in the Betty's line (sadly, this isn't saying much.)
For Entrees we ordered the Grilled Shrimp, Ohio Bounty Pasta with Chicken, Sam's (famous? best? I forget which hyperbole was chosen) Manicotti and Spaghetti with Meatballs and a marinara/alfredo mixture which was raved about in another review. I don't even know how to describe these items beyond, "Eh."
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Manicotti |
Look at those bountiful tomatoes!! |
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Spaghetti w/ meatballs |
I overlook flaws like these occasionally in Liz Lessner's other restaurants--they're not four star establishments, after all, and people generally go there for a fun time that doesn't break the bank. I get that. Really I do. And I do like the restaurants, and what they've done for the Columbus restaurant scene (if not the culinary scene.) I didn't complain about the stalest cupcake I've ever attempted to sink my teeth into at Surly Girl, or the nearly frozen broccoli at Betty's, or even the salad at Tip Top that was missing half the ingredients listed on the menu (until now.) But Ms. Lessner is trending towards the worse, and I'm concerned. Is the kitchen staff underpaid? Chefs inexperienced? Is she simply spreading her resources too thin?
I vow to investigate this further. Most likely while imbibing one (or more) of those $3 signature cocktails at Surly Girl, Dirty Frank's, Betty's or Tip Top... Probably not at Jury Room.